New York fashion week is fully into its stride, and there have been some much-anticipated collections showcased so far. The front rows have been full of fashionistas and icons including Alexa Chung, Rose McGowan, Anna Wintour and teen blogger Tavi. Here I give you my opinions on three of the hottest designers of the moment – Jason Wu, Alexander Wang and Prabal Gurung.
Jason WU – Ready to wear Autumn/Winter 2011.
Jason Wu’s collection was a mixture of androgyny and high glamour. The collection was strong on monochrome black/whites and greys, but with elements of block primary colours thrown into the mix. There were looks back to the past, with references to Yves St Laurent ‘Le smoking’ in the strong tuxedo suits and cigarette pants, and to Maggie Gyllenhall in Secretary with bow necklines and prints. The white and black florals were an echo of Givenchy’s designs for Audrey Hepburn.
I loved the flashes of colour and the use of lace. It has been reported that 15 different types of lace were used in the collection. The stand out designs for me were the evening wear. I loved the black lace dress and the stunning red strapless column. I would absolutely love to see these on the X Factor next season, with Cheryl Cole rocking the black dress and Danni in the red.
So, was there a dress in the collection for Jason Wu’s most famous patron Michelle Obama? Absolutely. The Givenchy inspired black and white dress with the tulip skirt is just the shape the stylish first lady loves, and with the sleeveless look, it would be perfect to show of those perfectly toned arms!
Alexander Wang’s sporty chic.
Alexander Wang has christened his collection ‘ironic luxury’. Luxurious it may be, but the irony just doesn’t work for me. The collection wasn’t bright enough, it wasn’t luxe enough, and some parts of it bordered on…dare I say it…chavvy.
There was a slight grungy element to the collection, with oversized knits being teamed with slinky silks and satins. Oversized seemed to be a theme of the collection, with shirts being oversized too. There were black ski style anoraks trimmed with fur which for me, as a renowned anorak hater, were just plain chavvy. What saved the collection was the amazing copper shoes. These had a fold over detail on the back which gave the impression of a mini batman cape for the foot. I loved these, they were glamorous and fun. What I could do without were the furry earmuffs, and don’t get me started on the bumbags…
Prabal Gurung – One word, WOW!
This was a totally amazing collection from Prabal Gurung. There was a strong emphasis on glamour, but the ladder effect tights worn with hot pink shoes ensured that it was fun and memorable too. Black and white made up a good part of the collection, but with hot pinks and red also added to the equation, often as a colour clashing duo.There were so many looks that could be lifted straight from the catwalk and worn by your favourite icon of style. There was a stunning 1950s style red dress that just evoked La Dolce Vita and would be amazing on Monica Belluci or Christina Hendricks. The 1970s style pink flared trousers and sheer red blouse would be amazing on Chloe Sevigny, whilst the bullfighter inspired outfit with red blouse and black cigarette pants would be striking on Rihanna.
There were references to pirates, Miss Haversham and even The Black Swan in one particularly showstopping black strapless gown. The models were not overstyled, looking beautiful with long flowing hair and smoky eyes. I loved every ensemble in this collection, and look forward to seeing it translated to the red carpet very soon.