Theoni V Aldredge – The Great Gatsby and Laura Mars

Costume designer Theoni V Aldredge died last week. The name may not be instantly recognisable to 21st century audiences, but this lady was responsible for the fabulous costumes in some of the most stylish and iconic films of the 1970s, Network, The Rose, The Eyes of Laura Mars, and, most famously, The Great Gatsby.

The 1974 version of the Great Gatsby was a beautiful failure. Many felt that the leads of Robert Redford and Mia Farrow were totally miscast, and the great things expected of the film failed to materialise. But the costumes designed for this film are another story completely. Theoni V Aldredge was the designer of the stunning and influential costumes for this film. She turned the roar of the 1920s into the romance of the era of Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald and Jay Gatsby. Wide brimmed hats, lace edged dresses in acres of chiffon and voile, floaty scarves and soft focus colours made the film a visual feast for fashion fans everywhere. Mia Farrow in her Daisy Buchanan costumes, was totally unrecognisable from the gamine waif of Rosemary’s baby. The costumes were so beautiful that Aldredge was awarded both an Oscar and a British Academy award for her work, and Bloomingdale’s in Manhattan adapted the costumes into a successful clothing line sold exclusively in their stores.

But Aldredge’s talent wasn’t limited to whimsical romantic looks. Some of her best work was producing designs for the actress Faye Dunaway in two classic 1970s films. The first of these was Network. She created Faye a smart and stylish career women’s wardrobe. This was full of sophisticated blouses, skirts and trousers in muted shades of brown/beige and cream. This look has proven to be timeless, with similar style in High Street stores as I write.

The second Faye Dunaway film that Aldredge designed for was the amazing campy, high gloss classic, ‘The eyes of Laura Mars’. This is one of my most beloved style movies. Faye plays a fashion photographer in this film, and the costumes are simply fabulous. This is late 70s glamour at its finest, pussy cat bow blouses, capes, silks and prints and fedoras. Many fashion designers have cited this film as an influence for their designs, including, most recently, Marios Schwab for his Autumn/Winter 2010 collection for Halston. Linda Evangelista and Raquel Zimmerman recreated the style of this movie in V magazine in 2008. A film oddity, but a fashion triumph, ‘The Eyes of Laura Mars’ has a fabulous style all of its own.

The Rose is the final iconic film of the 1970s that Aldredge was costume designer for. This is the story of a Janis Joplin type singer on the road to self-destruction. She was played by the glorious Bette Midler, in the role of her life, and the costumes have the feel of a boho with a smattering of glitz. Think Courtney Love on a really good day. I love the clothes in this movie, with Bette in fine form with her Carrie Bradshaw curls.

The work of Theoni V Aldredge deserves to be remembered as one of the costume design greats. Thirty plus years on, her work in these films is as fresh and vibrant and relevant as ever.